Sewing-machine.



C. M. ABERCROMBIE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY H, 1916. v v A Patented-Tune 11, 1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

ATTORNEY C. M. ABERCROMBIE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 11. I9l6.

1,268,809 Patented June 11, 1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

4 TTOR/VE Y C. M ABERCROMBIE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY I1. l9l6.

1,26,809. v Patented Julie 11, 1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3- WITNESS fTSr W ATTORNEY of the needles lateral movements.

CHARLES M. ABERGROMBIE, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO T-HE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEiV JERSEY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification for Design.

Patented June 11, 1918.

Application filed July 11, 1916. Serial No. 108,569.

To all whom it may concern:

, Be it known that 1, CHARLES M. ABER- CROM'BIE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the, county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines and has for its object to provide improved means for ef't'ecting'distinctly unlike parallel seams at a single operation, and has its application mainly in connection witha suitable fold and edgeguiding device adapted to the requirements of the desired product, and to this end there is herein shown a sewing machine construction employing two needles one of which has reciprocating and lateral movements while its cooperating needle partakes of reciprocating movements only. v

Referring to the figures, which form a part of the specification, Figure 1 is a view in front side elevation of a hem-stitch sewing machine equipped with the present improved stitch-forming mechanism, the bracket armbeing broken out to better illustrate the means employed for giving to one Fig. 2 is an underside view of Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a viewin elevation of the front end portion of the bracket-arm and sewing machine bed plateshown in Fig.1,togeth er with the foldand edge-guide employed to effect the product illustrated in Fig. 13. Fig. 4 is a plan view of the cloth-pressers and edge-guide, the latter suitably secured upon the sewing machine bed-plate. Fig. 5 is a view infront end elevation of the cloth-pressers andlower end of the needle-bar and its laterallyniovable needle. Fig. 6 isan enlarged view of the lower end of the needle-bar and elements carried by the latter, the samebeing illustrated on a smaller scale in 1. Figs. 7 8 and 9 are detached views of certain of a the elements comprising the needle vibrating mechanism, later to be referred to. Fig.

10 is a detail view of. the feed-cam. Fig.

11 is a detail view of the feed-lift cam and i the feed-lift crank-arm. Fig. 12 is a view in cross-sectionof the foldand edge-guides I shown in Fig. 4. Flg. 13 s a vlew of the product effected by the stitch forming,

three rotations of the main-shaft. notes a rock-shaft suitably journaled and cloth-feeding and cloth-folding and guiding mechanism herein illustrated.

The invention is herein shown and will be described in connection with one form of Singer commercial hem-stitch sewing machine of the, so termed, spoke stitch variety in which, as is common to sewing machines for effecting a true three-stitch hem-stitch figure, the needle is given two reciprocating movements in a given'path and a third in a different path and the fabric is given two forward and one return feed movement for each figure and, accordingly, only such reference will be made to the well understood features in construction as is deemed sufficient for an understanding of its application.

Referring to the figures, 1 represents the bed-plate of the sewing machine upon which is mounted the arm-bracket comprising the bracket-arm 2 and standard 3, 4 the upper rotary'main or needle-bar actuating shaft provided with a band-wheel 5 and cam-flange 6, the latter provided with a cam-groove 7 for actuating the take-up 8, said flange havthe upper end of a needle-bar actuating link 9 whose lower end is fulcrumed on the usual stud extending out from the needle-bar collar 10 (elements 9 and 10 shown in dotted lines only Fig. 1) fast on the needle-bar 11, thus transmitting from the main-shaft reciprocatory movements to the needle-bar.

. 12 represents ,abevel-g'ear fast on the mg suitably threaded into its front face a stud (not shown) upon which is fulcrumed main-shaft and meshing with a bevel-gear 13 iournaledion a stud 1i secured in the gear-plate 15, which latter in practice is suitably secured to the front side of the bracket-arm, as will be readily understood said plate, the ratio of the gear-members 12 and 17 beingas one to three, thus giving to the latter gear-member one rotatlon to held against endwise movement in a suitable bearing formed in the bracket-arm and'at its forward end provided with a segment lever 21 carrying at its lower end a stud 22 and cam-roller 23, the latter tracking the by reference to Fig. 8. The gear 13 carries cam-groove 18 in the gear-member 17, said segmentlever having adjustably and pivot ally secured to it one end of an endwise movable connection 25 whose opposite end carries a rocking guide 26 through which passes loosely a needle vibrating rod 27 suitably secured at its lower end to a rocking needle carrying bracket 28 pivotally and adjustably secured upon the needlebar bracket 29 and carrying the laterally movable needle 30, thus transmitting from the cam-groove 18 lateral movements to said needle.

31 denotes the needle for effecting a straightaway seam, said needle being suitably secured in a needle holding bracket 32 adjustably secured upon the needle-bar bracket 29.

As the means just described for controlling the lateral movements of the needle to effect a true hem-stitch seam is common to the construction of commercial hem-stitch sewing machines, it is not thought necessary to specifically point out the function of the different contours ofthe cam-groove 18 for effecting such lateral movements except to explain that the hem-stitch needle, as in earlier machines, is controlled by the camgroove 18 to partake of lateral movements when above the fabric to effect stitch-forming movements in different paths and when actuated to form the left hand stitch of the hem-stitch figure is given a lateral move ment to the right while in the fabric to form the openings, as 241-, thus efieeting an open-work seam important to the product, later to be referred to.

33 represents one form of commonly employed spring-depressed cloth-presser bar mounted in the usual bearings formed in the head of the bracket-arm and carrying at its lower end the usual cloth-pressers, as 32, said presser-bar being provided with a commonly employed spring-depressed auxiliary cloth-Presser bar 35 provided with the cloth-presser 36. 37 denotes the. lower rotary main-shaft operated from the mainshaft 1 through suitable connections, as 38 (shown in dotted lines only), said lower main-shaft carrying a gear-member 39 mesh ing with a gear-member 40 fast on the loop taker actuating shaft 4E1, the gears 42 and 43 carried by the latter shaft meshing with the respective gears 44: and 45 carried by the respective loop-taker shafts 46 and l7 carrying the respective loop'takers 18 and 4-9 (the elements 16, 4:7, 18 and 19 being shown in dotted lines only, Fig. 1), the gear-members 39 and 40 being of the ratio of two to one, thus giving to the loop-takers two rotations to one complete actuation of the needle-bar.

Upon the lower main-shaft is suitably secured a gear-member 50 meshing with the gear-teeth 51 formed on the periphery of the feed-cam 52 secured on the feed-shaft 53 mounted in a suitable bearing 54: depending from the bed-plate, the opposite end of said shaft carrying a feed-lift cam 55 which acts upon a cam-follower 56 carried by an arm 57 secured on the feed-lift rock-shaft 58, the latter being provided with a crankarm 59 provided with a s1ide-block 60 cooperating with the forked end 61 of the feed-dog carrying bar 62 provided with the feed-(log 63 (the latter shown in dotted lines only, Fig. 1). The gear-member 50 and the gear-member comprising the feedcam 52 are of the ratio of three to one, thus giving to the feed-shaft 53 one rotation to three rotations of the lower mainshaft, as is common to sewing machine constructions for effectinga hemstitch figure, it being understood that the form of the feed-lift cam is such as will give to the feed-dog vertical movements timed to meet the requirements of its two forward and one return feed movement, necessary to the stitching of said figure,

The feed-cam 52 is provided with a feedcam groove 64 into which tracks a camroller 65 carried by a crank-arm 66 fast upon one end of a rock-shaft 67 mounted to oscillate in a suitable bearing formed in the lug 68 depending from the bed-plate. Upon the opposite end of the shaft 67 there is suitably secured a segment lever 69 provided with a groove 70 into which tracks a feed adjusting block 71 operatively connected by link 72 and rock-arm 73 (the latter shown in dotted lines only, Fig. 2) with the feed rock-shaft 74:, said link being connected by an arm 75 with the feed adjusting rock-shaft 76, which latter permits of adj ustment through the manual manipulation of the feed adjusting lever 77 to vary the amplitude of feed movements of the feed-dog 63, said feed rock shaft transmitting through the crank-arm 78 (shown in dotted lines only, Figs. 1 and 2) feed movements to the feed-dog carrying bar 62.

As the fabric feeding mechanism just described is common to machines of the present variety for effecting openwork seams it is not deemed necessary to explain in detail the control effected by the cam-groove 64 to give to the feed-dog its step-by-step feed movements in opposite directions. 7

While the means for effecting a true hemstitch seam has been selected to demonstrate the application of the present invention, it is to be understood that it is not limited in this respect, the purpose of the invention being to give to a product effected at a single operation an ornamental finish by including an open-work seam which may be asherein shown and described or of a different design.

Referring now to the means illustrated for presenting the fabric to the action of the stitch-forming and cloth-feeding mechahemmer 82 and by screw 83 a lever 84 carrying a folder-plate 85 secured by screws as 85, the plate 7 9 being provided with an extended portion 86 having at its free end a notch 87 which coacts with a bent-portion 88 of the free spring end of the lever 84:, the latter acting when positioned in the notch 87 to hold the folder-plate in operative position relatively to the stitch-forming mechanism or when released to permit of its being moved out of such position to accommodate the inserting of the free edge of the fabric 89 into the scroll-guide 82.

Upon the head of the bracket-arm is pivotally secured by screw 90 and spring washer 91 a lever 92 which, at its free end, has suitably secured to it a bracket 93, and to the latter is suitably secured a fabric guiding member 93 through which the lace or trimming 94 is directed to the action of the stitch-forming mechanism.

To position the fabrics in the scrolland edge-guides to produce the product repre sented by Fig. 13, the folder-plate 85 is first moved to the position shown in dotted lines Fig. 4, when the free edge 95 of the fabric 89 is positioned into the scroll-guide 82, as illustrated in Fig. 12, to form the hem-fold 96, when the folder-plate is returned to its first position to form the fold 97 followed by directing the lace or trimming fabric 94 through the guide-member 93, thus superposing the several plies of fabrics as shown in Fig. 13 when the machine is set in motion and the several plies secured by the hemstitch seam 98 and straightaway seam 99, at a single operation.

Having thus set forth the nature of invention, what I claim herein is 1. In a sewing machine, the combination with a fabric-feeding and stitch-forming mechanism employing a needle for producing a straightaway seam and a needle for producing an open-work seam at a single operation, of means for presenting and directing superposed plies of fabric to the action of said stitch-forming mechanism simultaneously with the stitching operation.

2. In a sewing machine employing two needles and cooperating loop-takers, the combination of a needle-bar provided with one of said needles, a needle-bar actuating shaft operatively connected with said needlebar to give to the latter and said needle stitch-forming movements in a given path only, a pivotally mounted needle-holding bracket carried by said needle-bar and provided with the other of said needles, and connections between said main-shaft and said pivotally mounted needle-holding bracket for giving to the needle carried by the latter lateral movements when out of the fabric being acted on to direct its stitchforming movements in different paths and lateral movements when in the fabric to effect openings in the latter.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

CHARLES M. ABERCROMBIE.

Witnesses:

A. H. Boss, l J. A. HAYWARD.

Copies of'this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the "Bommissioner of Patento,

Washington, D. 0." 

